Radiant heating question?
Radiant heating question?
Architecture lecture addresses library, museum, financial center
The new Washington County Public Library will have a three-story circular atrium, a childrens department three times the size of the old one, and a system that collects and filters rainwater from the roof.
chimney questions?
I have a chimney w/ 2 flues that runs through the middle of my century home, one side has a wood burner attached to steel flextube liner. the other flue has no liner but has my hot water tank and my old boiler (approx. 25yrs) attached. My first question is should I expect the side with the wood stove to get warm and would it be logical to remove the old plaster on the chimney in my living room to expose the brick to use the radiant heat? My second question is if there is any cracks in the bricks on the hot water/boiler side will they leak in carbon monoxide and if so what is the best way to seal them up so I can expose the whole chimney in the living room. The third question is I found bricks hidden by some plaster that are black and have a burnt smell to them should I be worried? Please help me!!!!
thank you
and YES I did start the removal of the plaster and found a hair line crack in a brick and 2 burnt bricks and the plaster looks lightly charred from awhile ago.
If you are concerned with carbon monoxide in the non-lined section of the chimney, I’d contact a heating contractor and request a price for installing metal B-vent chimney liner and connecting the boiler and hw heater to the B-vent. To remove the plaster for any potential radiant heat gain is fairly pointless, you won’t notice any appreciable difference. Unless you know the total history of the house, the burnt bricks could have been a result of a roaring fire many years ago, I wouldn’t get overly concerned. If you decide to have the B-venting estimated, when the contractor comes out, ask him if the liner for the woodstove is class C-vent….if not, ask if it’s up to current Code regarding a woodstove chimney liner. The advice you received from the 1st person regarding sealing up small cracks etc. is right on the money, use a “caulk tube” type product intended for use on brick, let the salesperson know that it’s for a chimney so that you get the correct product.
Biology & Science Questions : How Does Radiant Heat Work?
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May 30th, 2010 at 4:35 pm
Go with the first answer… radiant floor heating is great (no more cold feet) and does the job both efficiently and what I like best – uniformly and consistantly… No more hot/cold hot/cold as the heater/fans come on and off…
it can also be very inexpensive to install if you are doing the construction… might be more difficult to do AFTER construction, but even then it runs easily if you have access to the joists under the floor…. I assume you are looking at pex? but there are other methods as well.
Good luck, you will enjoy it!
May 30th, 2010 at 4:35 pm
If properly sized, it will heat any size room. For more info, check out my source.
May 30th, 2010 at 4:35 pm
You will need a separate system to supply the hot water for radiant heat. It can be done however and will heat the entire space. You can put forced air vents in the walls from your current system if you can route them back to the furnace. They don’t have to be in the floor.
May 30th, 2010 at 4:35 pm
In floor Radiant heat would do the trick yes!
Make sure to insulate well, whichever type of system you use.
Which type of system are you thinking about installing?
Since you have natural gas you could go with a small boiler and use pex tubing embedded in a newly pored layer of concrete. You could use an electric grid system. You could also run duct work to use with the forced air system you are already using. I really like the in-floor radiant heat though its quiet, dust free, and very comfortable. I live in Minnesota so I imagine it would work where you live as well.
Hope this helps,
May 30th, 2010 at 4:35 pm
Anyway you twist it you have concrete to saw. Like sewer lines for the bath.
Radiant heat works fine BUT in your case you will have to buy an additional boiler unit to feed it plus pour concrete to enclose the floor system.
Good Luck with your challenge.
May 30th, 2010 at 4:35 pm
Radiant hot water heat will work, and you will likely be raising the garage floor anyway to get rid of the slope in the floor and get the new floor above grade. You will need a hot water source. You can add a boiler, or for a small area a solar/gas or solar/electric water heater would work too.
If you need air conditioning too, consider a split heat pump system. There is a small ‘head’ unit that sits inside on the wall and a small compressor that sits outside. They are quiet and provide both heat and air conditioning. They don’t heat the floor, but are an economical add on system.
May 30th, 2010 at 4:35 pm
Yes. I installed a "Warmly Yours" electric pad under tile in a room 5 years ago. I’ve always liked this….wake up on a cold morning and the floor is warm.
If you go this route, tack the coils down with 2x as many fasteners as recommended. Any little 1/4 inch buldge in the coil will protrude from the first layer of mortar and mess up your tile laying.
May 30th, 2010 at 4:35 pm
you want to save, go into your furnace room, connect to your duct work, go thru ceiling, take it over your rafters and cut it in to the ceiling, a lot cheaper, just make sure the duct is insulated